This marked the third time climbing Hood for both of us. In 2008 and 2009 we successfully ascended the South Side route via the Hogsback. This year our friend and guide Geoff with Timberline Mountain Guides encouraged us take things "to the next level" and attempt a more challenging route to help us grow as mountaineers. Geoff suggested we ascend the Leuthold Coulior to the west of Illumination Saddle. Leuthold is a bit steeper and longer than going up from the south and offers a different perspective on the mountain.
At 10pm on Saturday (after being awake since 8am), I picked up Jared and we headed out from Portland to Timberline Lodge to catch a 2am snowcat ride from the lodge up to the top of the ski area. In theory, we arrived early enough to take a nap before heading out. But I wasn't able to sleep for more than a few minutes. Around 1am we met up with Geoff and began checking our gear to make sure everything was in order. I've learned the two most important items to check are boots and crampons.
Before too long, we headed up the mountain in the snowcat. We had the unexpected honor of sharing the snowcat with Stacy Allison - the first American woman to summit Mt. Everest. Stacy is currently a motivational speaker living in the Portland area. Unfortunately I wasn't able to talk to her more than receiving a brief introduction from Geoff. But I thought it boded well for our team to be in the presence of a climber as accomplished as Stacy.
After hopping off the snowcat, we put on our crampons, turned on our headlamps and set off west towards Illumination Saddle. In the past, we've gone straight up the Palmer Glacier from the ski area. But to reach Leuthold, we first had to hike over the top of the Saddle and down several hundred feet to reach the base of the coulior. This stretch was rough because we traversed the glacier diagonally for 45 minutes, causing our boots to repetitively pound our ankles in the same spot. Looking up and seeing a clear night sky with the Big Dipper and other constellations helped take the edge off.
After reaching the top of the Saddle, we rested a few minutes and hooked on to a rope line. The wind was howling as we scarfed down some energy bars and electrolyte beverages. In order to reach Leuthold, we had to climb down and across the Reid Glacier with several crevasses. Although Geoff didn't seem too concerned anything would open up under us, the rope provided an extra measure of safety.As we climbed down from the Saddle, the lights from Oregon City, Gresham and the eastern edge of Portland were clearly visible. Upon reaching the base of the coulior, Geoff shortened the rope length separating each of us and I took out my second ice tool to arm myself in each hand for the steep ascent up Leuthold.
Here's a video in the early morning light from part way up the coulior.
Although steep, at first I thought the climbing was easier than hiking sideways across the glacier to reach the top of the Saddle. We got into a rhythm and quickly increased our elevation. However, the challenges of the route soon became apparent as small chunks of ice came down from higher up the coulior and our feet at times sunk a foot or more into the snow. In a few places I relied entirely on my two ice axes to help pull me up to the next step. For the first time on the climb, I started becoming fatigued from the elevation (and a lack of sleep from the night before). Geoff pushed us to keep going because of the icefall hazard and didn't let us rest until we reached a safe location. As we continued up Leuthold, the sun came up and made visible a stunningly beautiful alpine landscape.
We passed through a stretch called the Hourglass because of its narrow shape that acts like a funnel for pieces of ice that ricochet off of its steep walls. This video is from midway up the Hourglass.
After ascending through the Hourglass, we pushed on to the top of Leuthold and rested. We could see St. Helens and Adams off to the north intermittently as clouds quickly came and went. Bull Run and Lost Lake were clear to the northwest. I was hoping we didn't have much more to go, but Geoff informed us we still had to climb more than 500 feet to reach the top of the summit ridge before hiking across to the true summit. This was my moment of "man-ing up." I was exhausted and feeling off from the elevation, but dug deep to keep going. I know Jared was feeling the same way.
We continued onwards and upwards, finally reaching the top of the summit ridge after what seemed like an eternity (I'm told it actually wasn't more than 30-45 minutes). This part of the climb is completely visible from Portland - it's what you see immediately below the highest point. For the final push, we walked along the ridge towards the true summit. In a few places, it can best be described as a knife's edge - not much more than two feet separates the north and south sides of the mountain. As we traversed the ridge, we hiked past the point where our previous climbs up the South Route headed towards the summit.
And finally, at 8:15 a.m., we made it. Unfortunately, unlike our previous climbs, the summit was obscured in clouds. But that did nothing to diminish the feeling of accomplishment: the first of the Pentaquest 2010 peaks was summited, and we both had three-peated Hood. Despite the conditions, I could have spent all day up there. But Geoff's spidey-sense started tingling in response to ominous looking thunderheads forming in the distance. I've learned to trust and respect when an experienced guide has a hunch about something.
Before heading down, I took out a banner in support of our good friend and former colleague Maria Rubio, who is running for Multnomah County Commissioner. Jared and I each grabbed an end as Geoff snapped several pictures. Maria can now claim she was the only candidate with any visibility on the summit of Hood. I wish I could have left a lawn sign, but I'm fairly certain the wind would have blown it away.
We then packed up our gear and quickly started going down the South Route towards the Hogsback. Due to its steepness and falling ice, Leuthold can be difficult (and hazardous) in the afternoon as things begin to thaw. I appreciated covering familiar territory from previous climbs during the descent. After dropping several hundred feet, we emerged from the summit clouds to a sunny sky and a clear view down to the lodge.
As we approached the Hogsback, the stench of sulphur wafting from Devil's Kitchen filled the air. In this video you can see steam rising from the Kitchen.
The speed of our descent was in stark contrast to our long slog up the mountain. Here's a video shot by Geoff showing us coming down from the summit.
By the time we reached the Hogsback, we were all ready to be done. Our desire for a hot meal and to get off the mountain before the rains and possible lightning helped drive us back to the lodge. And for the first time since Illumination Saddle, Geoff unhooked us from the rope line. It was nice to be untethered, but I also felt the loss of the security provided by the rope. I made sure from that point forward to fight through the fatigue and think carefully before taking each step. Two years previously I tripped on my crampons and fell face first near the end of the climb - I only banged up my knees, but it was a reminder of what can happen when you get tired and careless.
The three of us - now moving independently - quickly descended. After less than 30 minutes, we were more than a thousand feet lower. I eagerly awaited the moment when Geoff would give us the green light to glissade (slide down the mountain on your butt). Interestingly, the letters in glissade can be rearranged to spell assglide - I don't think it's a coincidence. Glissading is a blast and makes the descent go much faster. But one must use caution when going down a steep slope and be alert for sharp pieces of ice and chunks of rock.
Once we were low enough, Jared and I glissaded as far as we could go down into the upper parts of the ski area. Geoff refrained from joining us, but was still nearly able to keep pace since the glissading slowed down significantly whenever the descent angle dropped.
I looked back several times to see how much distance we had covered. The sky around the mountain except for the clouds shrouding the summit ridge was clear. We continued slogging through the snow and eventually reached the parking lot at the lodge around noon. We were all excited to be back, but even more ecstatic about getting a hot meal in Government Camp.
Jared and I headed off to the Ice Axe Grill with Geoff following ten minutes later. I'm a huge fan of the Ice Axe since it is the home of the Mt. Hood Brewing Company. But since I hadn't slept since 8am on Saturday, I figured it was best to stick with their microbrew root beer (in all seriousness, it's some of the best anywhere) to avoid falling asleep on the drive home.
And with a good meal, the first of the Pentaquest 2010 climbs came to a close. Jared and I parted ways with Geoff and headed back to Portland. Now on to Mt. St. Helens on June 5th.
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