Table Mountain - April 19, 2015

Despite already hiking Table Mountain in January, I joined a small group to hit it again on April 19th. The promise of bluebird conditions and a tough conditioning hike were too good to pass up. Table - along with Dog Mountain, Nesmith Point, the epic Mt. Defiance and several others - comprise the Columbia Gorge wheelhouse of trails ideal for preparing climbers for the Cascade volcanoes.

Our group of six rendezvoused at the trailhead around 8:30 a.m. to get an early start to return in time for sports - specifically a late afternoon Timbers road game and Blazers playoff bout. Oddly, as we waited for the group to arrive, a peacock with full plumage strutted around the Bonneville Hot Springs parking lot.

By 9am, we were well on our way through the woods under a slightly hazy blue sky. The trail increased at a gradual rate, offering no warning of the upward onslaught to follow. An hour later after several forks in the road, the path intersected with the Pacific Crest Trail for a short stretch before the start of a brutal route to the summit known as the "Heartbreak Ridge" Trail (with no relation to the Clint Eastwood movie).

Looking down the rock slide on the Heartbreak Ridge trail

We then dug in and pushed up one of the steepest maintained stretches in the Gorge. Within a half mile we had gained a great deal of elevation and could start to see Mt. Hood and more of the Columbia. Although the sky was clear, the extent of the haze - rumored to be from fires in Siberia - became more apparent as we gained vertical feet.

After the brutal push at the start of Heartbreak, we reached a narrow ridge with views in both directions before going back into the forest up a series of switchbacks. We then popped out onto a rock slide extending hundreds of feet up toward the top. As we scrambled upward, most of the rocks held firm, but we had to watch our footing to avoid sending smaller boulders back down the slope.

Team selfie with Mt. Adams in the background

Once at the top of the rock slide, it was a quick dash to the finish and the summit marker. The "Sound of Music"-esque scene at the top was stunning. We counted four volcanoes (Hood, Rainier, Adams and St. Helens), but couldn't see Jefferson because of the haze. After walking out to peer over the edge of the rock face on Table's eastern side, we settled down to eat lunch and stare down on Bonneville Dam. Looking east to west, we could see from the Portland area to the mountains around The Dalles.

With the Timbers kickoff on our minds, we quickly descended after looping across the top of the table-like summit plateau of Table. The hike back to the trailhead went well, but several patches on the backside of the Heartbreak trail required caution because of overall steepness and loose rock. Once in the woods again, we rejoined the PCT and we retraced our steps from earlier in the day. The rest of the hike was uneventful, but still fulfilling as we reminisced about challenges from earlier in the day and looked forward to getting home in time to watch the games.

I'm convinced you can't do much better in the Gorge than Table on a clear day with a good group of hiking companions. The day was my first opportunity to hike with some of the members on the team, and I hope to again. And we were successful at getting back in time for Timbers kickoff!

Here's a link to more pictures from the hike.

Nesmith Point - March 28, 2015

One of my favorite hikes in the Columbia Gorge is Nesmith Point - a perfect combination of elevation gain, river/volcano views, wildlife and geology. The trail, beginning just off the old highway, is a ten mile loop with over 3,700 feet of vertical awesomeness. After skipping over it the past few hiking seasons, I headed to Nesmith on March 28th.

After rendezvousing for a surprisingly solid breakfast at the Troutdale Shari's, we motored east and parked at the trailhead within a half hour. The sky was overcast with billowing clouds enshrouding the tops of the surrounding ridges, but blue started to intrude as we hit the trail.  About a hundred feet into the hike we encountered a video crew setting up for the Gorge Waterfalls 100K, an ultra-marathon that started at 4am. Feeling significantly less bad-ass than the ultra runners, we continued onward.

The trail as the elevation gain starts to kick in

The first half mile of the route is a pleasant stroll through the woods before a steep, almost unceasing series of switchbacks and elevation gain starts up. In good spirits, we kept up a brisk pace and pushed ourselves as the trail arced back and forth up a ravine. We crossed through a boulder field known for pika, and heard the familiar peep of the Ochotona princeps.

You can hear a "meep" if you wait until the end of the video

Finally, we reached the top of a ridge after gaining almost 3,000 feet in less than three miles. The trail leveled out for another mile as we headed for a junction that would take us up to the Nesmith Point summit. Around this time the temperature dropped and we climbed into a cloud bank. By the time we reached the high point, the wind was blowing and conditions were less than stellar. Undeterred, we enjoyed a fine brew from Base Camp Brewing and celebrated the moment.

Victory!

The descent went fast. After dropping down several hundred feet, the temperature warmed up considerably and the sky started to clear. Back at the top of the ravine, the sun started to shine down on Hamilton and Table Mountains across the river to the north. We made a decision to trail run the bulk of the way back to the car, and did our best to balance speed and safety while tearing down through the switchbacks. Other than a pause at the pika field, we didn't stop much until the level area before the parking lot. Within sight of the car, we were once again humbled as ultra-marathoners passed by the video crew we had seen earlier in the day. Whatever we had accomplished paled in comparison to running 100 kilometers.

The sun comes out...

Overall, it was a great hike. Sore quads were a small price to pay for a memorable outing in the Gorge.

Silver Star - March 22, 2015

There's a mystique to Silver Star Mountain. Maybe it's the isolation - although it's the highest peak (4,393 feet) close to Portland on the Washington side of the Columbia and clearly visible from most of the city, there isn't an easy way to get to the trailhead. All routes involve circuitous paths on forest service roads requiring a high clearance vehicle. If you take a wrong turn, you'll end up at the Larch Correctional Facility. And there are the Indian Pits, a Native American archaeological site near the summit (click here for more info).

Pyramid Rock from near the summit of Silver Star

Whenever I've planned to do this hike, it's consistently aligned with inclement weather. The Sunday in March we decided to go was no exception. Our hardy group left Portland after breakfast at Gravy on Mississippi and headed up I-5 into Washington, and then east to Battle Ground. After navigating the back roads along the Lewis River and missing a few turns, we arrived at the trailhead off Forest Road #1200. From there the hike involved an 8.3 mile loop and 2,015 in elevation. Another route on the north side is also popular, although doesn't involve as much distance.

Looking up to the summit of Silver Star

It was still mostly dry as we started hiking the first few miles of flat terrain. After crossing Rock Creek, the path became much steeper, especially after joining an old haul road once used to ferry supplies to a now defunct fire lookout on the summit. We slogged rapidly upward as the rain began to fall with increased intensity. We passed an unmarked spur to Sturgeon Rock (the high point of Clark County) and continued another mile or so to the Silver Star summit. The top was completely socked in, offering a few fleeting glimpses of Pyramid Rock to the south and absolutely no view of the Cascade giants to the north, east and south (Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, and Hood). As the rain and wind continued, we made a quick exit from the summit's exposed alpine environment and descended back into the woods, finding shelter by what looked to be a camp site.

After a brief snack and whiskey break, we descended down the rocky trail to the car, passing through areas torched by the historic Yacolt Burn of 1902. Within moments of reaching the trailhead, the rain dialed up a notch. Despite the absence of a view, it was still an interesting hike and a fun day with a great team.  

Here's a link to more pics from the hike.

Indian Point - March 7, 2015

Located a few miles east of Cascade Locks, Indian Point is a promontory sticking out into the Gorge above I-84. The hike begins at the Herman Creek Trailhead and gains 2,700 vertical feet over a seven mile loop. Although the path rises almost a half mile from trailhead to summit, the incline is evenly spaced out throughout the hike.

We picked a beautiful Saturday in March to hit the trail. The sun was out with virtually no clouds in any direction. After navigating a few early forks in the path, we found the route through the woods that would ultimately lead to the point. As we gained elevation, the views of the river and surrounding mountains continued to improve. First Mt. St. Helens, and then Mt. Adams, became visible across the Columbia.

Indian Point

After two hours we reached a spur leading to a climbers trail. The steep path rapidly descended a few hundred feet down to a narrow ridge leading out to Indian Point. A dozen others were already there by the time we reached the edge and put down our packs for lunch. We soaked in the view, hiked out to the base of the point, and then climbed back up to the main path. From there we continued upward on a different trail that eventually flattened out and then descended in a loop back to a junction from earlier in the day.  As the trail began to descend, we decided to trail run the last several miles down to the car. It made for a quick journey to the trailhead, but our quads paid for it into the work week.

Looking east in the Gorge with Mt. Adams in the background

Overall, it was a great day on an excellent hike. The combination of weather, friends and scenery created an experience worthy of repeating. We capped it off by hitting the Cascade Locks Ale House for food and a pint before returning to Portland.

Click here for more photos from the day.

Saddle Mountain - February 16, 2015

Saddle Mountain (5.5 miles, 1,600 vertical feet) is the premier hiking highlight of the northern Oregon Coast Range, offering a chance to glimpse five volcanoes (Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, Hood and Jefferson) when conditions are right. On a nice Saturday or Sunday, hordes of Portlanders ascend its accessible switchbacks during their weekend jaunt to Seaside or Cannon Beach. The summer crowds are a powerful motivator to seek recreation elsewhere, and make the rare, clear, snow-free winter day an opportunity not to be missed.

We had such a perfect alignment of conditions on Presidents' Day and headed west on 26 from Portland, stopping at Camp 18 for a breakfast worthy of lumberjacks from the days of yore. By 10:30 a.m. we parked and headed up the trail. The day was perfect - blue sky, temperature in the 50s with occasional gusts of wind. Although the route started in a wooded area, the absence of spring foliage made it easy to see the surrounding mountains, and eventually the ocean as we continued upward.

The wind gradually became more intense. In the exposed areas toward the top, gusts reached to 20-30 mph. At the summit we expected to only hang out for a moment before seeking shelter from the wind, but were pleasantly surprised to find a calm spot to snack and enjoy the view. And it was an epic sight! All five volcanoes were out, along with the Olympics to the north, Goat Rocks to the northeast, Astoria and the Columbia River bar to the northwest and countless Cascadian landmarks.

After hanging out for fifteen minutes we descended, passing dozens of other hikers on their way up with the same idea. By the time we reached the car, the parking lot overflowed with vehicles extending down alongside the access road. The key lessons learned for the day reiterated what was already known: hike Saddle on a clear day, and hit the trail as early as possible.

View more pics from the hike.

Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Loop - January 31, 2015

East of Hood River on the Washington side of the Columbia is the Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Loop hike. The six mile circuit involves 1,200+ vertical feet and is generally accessible year round. I went on an overcast Saturday the day before Super Bowl XLIX, full of false optimism that a Seattle win was imminent.

The loop's recently renovated trailhead is a few miles east of the UAV/drone hotbed of Bingen, WA. After parking and gearing up, we followed the trail along an old highway past a small lake, ignoring the spur leading up to Coyote Wall. After another half mile, we left the highway and started up a series of switchbacks on the Labyrinth side of the loop. Although a grey Gorge day, the landscape was still punctuated by bright green moss and the subtle beginnings of wildflowers getting a jump on the spring. The only annoyance was the churlish member of another hiking group loudly opining on her failed efforts at dating.

We continued zigzagging up the hillside along a creek, past several waterfalls and a small cave. Several ospreys and bald eagles circled around us looking for prey while following thermal updrafts. On several occasions we yielded the path for mountain bikers either slogging up or zooming down past us. After a leisurely few hours we reached the top of the Labyrinth trail and looped to the west for two miles toward Coyote Wall. Cloud cover blocked Mt. Hood, but we could still see the landscape leading down to the Columbia in both directions.

At the edge of the wall, we paused to admire the abrupt drop down to the trailhead. The rock face looked like something more appropriately found on a butte or mesa in a Southwest desert. And then we hurried back to the car as the wind started to pick up along the wall. Despite the river being in view the entire descent, it seemed to take much longer than expected to complete the final mile of switchbacks.

View more pics from the hike.

Table Mountain - January 25, 2015

Table Mountain wasn't part of the plan, at least not until March or April. But then the weather gods provided a ridiculous opening and an audible was called at the line. Instead of heading out to the scenic and leisurely Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Loop near Hood River, a decision was made to take on Table and its 3200' vertical feet.

Portland remained a foggy mess as we drove east to Cascade Locks. By Fairview, blue started to poke through the clouds and a banner weather day took hold. What made it unusual was the warmth and absence of snow. I left the trailhead in a t-shirt, and later regretted not wearing shorts.

The first few miles pass through the woods north of Bonneville Hot Springs on the Washington side of the river. Eventually the trail intersects with the Pacific Crest Trail and joins the path made famous by the book and movie Wild for a mile. From there the fun begins - most of the elevation gain on Table is concentrated in a loop called "Heartbreak Ridge" (no relation to the movie with Clint Eastwood about the invasion of Grenada). The trail rockets up the side of the hill and almost doesn't stop until the summit. There are a few brief moments of respite, but what really takes away the pain is the view. It's simply stunning. 

As the trail rises, Mt. Hood - the first of the five volcanoes visible from the hike - emerges across the Columbia on the Washington side of the river. Table also entertains by providing varied hiking terrain. One of the more interesting stretches involves scrambling up several hundred feet of boulders as the trail approaches the summit. On this warm January day, the temperature almost felt hot as we ascended, reaching into the 60s with almost no breeze.

The final approach to the top hides the big finish. Upon reaching the apex, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Jefferson to the south, suddenly join Mt. Hood and complete the five. It requires a clear day for this magic to happen.

Left to right: St. Helens, Rainier, Adams

We spent some time walking around the flat summit plateau enjoying the five volcanoes and found a spot overlooking the Columbia and Bonneville Dam to eat lunch. To the west, fog still clung to parts of the Willamette Valley around Portland. After a half hour we started the descent down the opposite side of "Heartbreak Ridge." On a bad day, parts of the downward hike are akin to walking on marbles on a pool table. But the conditions were great and we didn't experience much difficulty navigating back to the PCT, and then hiking the final miles back to the car.

It's an overused word, but the overall experience can only be described as epic: January, 60s, no snow and clear conditions. Cascadia for the win!

Click here to check out pictures from the hike.