Table Mountain - April 19, 2015

Despite already hiking Table Mountain in January, I joined a small group to hit it again on April 19th. The promise of bluebird conditions and a tough conditioning hike were too good to pass up. Table - along with Dog Mountain, Nesmith Point, the epic Mt. Defiance and several others - comprise the Columbia Gorge wheelhouse of trails ideal for preparing climbers for the Cascade volcanoes.

Our group of six rendezvoused at the trailhead around 8:30 a.m. to get an early start to return in time for sports - specifically a late afternoon Timbers road game and Blazers playoff bout. Oddly, as we waited for the group to arrive, a peacock with full plumage strutted around the Bonneville Hot Springs parking lot.

By 9am, we were well on our way through the woods under a slightly hazy blue sky. The trail increased at a gradual rate, offering no warning of the upward onslaught to follow. An hour later after several forks in the road, the path intersected with the Pacific Crest Trail for a short stretch before the start of a brutal route to the summit known as the "Heartbreak Ridge" Trail (with no relation to the Clint Eastwood movie).

Looking down the rock slide on the Heartbreak Ridge trail

We then dug in and pushed up one of the steepest maintained stretches in the Gorge. Within a half mile we had gained a great deal of elevation and could start to see Mt. Hood and more of the Columbia. Although the sky was clear, the extent of the haze - rumored to be from fires in Siberia - became more apparent as we gained vertical feet.

After the brutal push at the start of Heartbreak, we reached a narrow ridge with views in both directions before going back into the forest up a series of switchbacks. We then popped out onto a rock slide extending hundreds of feet up toward the top. As we scrambled upward, most of the rocks held firm, but we had to watch our footing to avoid sending smaller boulders back down the slope.

Team selfie with Mt. Adams in the background

Once at the top of the rock slide, it was a quick dash to the finish and the summit marker. The "Sound of Music"-esque scene at the top was stunning. We counted four volcanoes (Hood, Rainier, Adams and St. Helens), but couldn't see Jefferson because of the haze. After walking out to peer over the edge of the rock face on Table's eastern side, we settled down to eat lunch and stare down on Bonneville Dam. Looking east to west, we could see from the Portland area to the mountains around The Dalles.

With the Timbers kickoff on our minds, we quickly descended after looping across the top of the table-like summit plateau of Table. The hike back to the trailhead went well, but several patches on the backside of the Heartbreak trail required caution because of overall steepness and loose rock. Once in the woods again, we rejoined the PCT and we retraced our steps from earlier in the day. The rest of the hike was uneventful, but still fulfilling as we reminisced about challenges from earlier in the day and looked forward to getting home in time to watch the games.

I'm convinced you can't do much better in the Gorge than Table on a clear day with a good group of hiking companions. The day was my first opportunity to hike with some of the members on the team, and I hope to again. And we were successful at getting back in time for Timbers kickoff!

Here's a link to more pictures from the hike.

Indian Point - March 7, 2015

Located a few miles east of Cascade Locks, Indian Point is a promontory sticking out into the Gorge above I-84. The hike begins at the Herman Creek Trailhead and gains 2,700 vertical feet over a seven mile loop. Although the path rises almost a half mile from trailhead to summit, the incline is evenly spaced out throughout the hike.

We picked a beautiful Saturday in March to hit the trail. The sun was out with virtually no clouds in any direction. After navigating a few early forks in the path, we found the route through the woods that would ultimately lead to the point. As we gained elevation, the views of the river and surrounding mountains continued to improve. First Mt. St. Helens, and then Mt. Adams, became visible across the Columbia.

Indian Point

After two hours we reached a spur leading to a climbers trail. The steep path rapidly descended a few hundred feet down to a narrow ridge leading out to Indian Point. A dozen others were already there by the time we reached the edge and put down our packs for lunch. We soaked in the view, hiked out to the base of the point, and then climbed back up to the main path. From there we continued upward on a different trail that eventually flattened out and then descended in a loop back to a junction from earlier in the day.  As the trail began to descend, we decided to trail run the last several miles down to the car. It made for a quick journey to the trailhead, but our quads paid for it into the work week.

Looking east in the Gorge with Mt. Adams in the background

Overall, it was a great day on an excellent hike. The combination of weather, friends and scenery created an experience worthy of repeating. We capped it off by hitting the Cascade Locks Ale House for food and a pint before returning to Portland.

Click here for more photos from the day.

Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Loop - January 31, 2015

East of Hood River on the Washington side of the Columbia is the Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Loop hike. The six mile circuit involves 1,200+ vertical feet and is generally accessible year round. I went on an overcast Saturday the day before Super Bowl XLIX, full of false optimism that a Seattle win was imminent.

The loop's recently renovated trailhead is a few miles east of the UAV/drone hotbed of Bingen, WA. After parking and gearing up, we followed the trail along an old highway past a small lake, ignoring the spur leading up to Coyote Wall. After another half mile, we left the highway and started up a series of switchbacks on the Labyrinth side of the loop. Although a grey Gorge day, the landscape was still punctuated by bright green moss and the subtle beginnings of wildflowers getting a jump on the spring. The only annoyance was the churlish member of another hiking group loudly opining on her failed efforts at dating.

We continued zigzagging up the hillside along a creek, past several waterfalls and a small cave. Several ospreys and bald eagles circled around us looking for prey while following thermal updrafts. On several occasions we yielded the path for mountain bikers either slogging up or zooming down past us. After a leisurely few hours we reached the top of the Labyrinth trail and looped to the west for two miles toward Coyote Wall. Cloud cover blocked Mt. Hood, but we could still see the landscape leading down to the Columbia in both directions.

At the edge of the wall, we paused to admire the abrupt drop down to the trailhead. The rock face looked like something more appropriately found on a butte or mesa in a Southwest desert. And then we hurried back to the car as the wind started to pick up along the wall. Despite the river being in view the entire descent, it seemed to take much longer than expected to complete the final mile of switchbacks.

View more pics from the hike.

Table Mountain - January 25, 2015

Table Mountain wasn't part of the plan, at least not until March or April. But then the weather gods provided a ridiculous opening and an audible was called at the line. Instead of heading out to the scenic and leisurely Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Loop near Hood River, a decision was made to take on Table and its 3200' vertical feet.

Portland remained a foggy mess as we drove east to Cascade Locks. By Fairview, blue started to poke through the clouds and a banner weather day took hold. What made it unusual was the warmth and absence of snow. I left the trailhead in a t-shirt, and later regretted not wearing shorts.

The first few miles pass through the woods north of Bonneville Hot Springs on the Washington side of the river. Eventually the trail intersects with the Pacific Crest Trail and joins the path made famous by the book and movie Wild for a mile. From there the fun begins - most of the elevation gain on Table is concentrated in a loop called "Heartbreak Ridge" (no relation to the movie with Clint Eastwood about the invasion of Grenada). The trail rockets up the side of the hill and almost doesn't stop until the summit. There are a few brief moments of respite, but what really takes away the pain is the view. It's simply stunning. 

As the trail rises, Mt. Hood - the first of the five volcanoes visible from the hike - emerges across the Columbia on the Washington side of the river. Table also entertains by providing varied hiking terrain. One of the more interesting stretches involves scrambling up several hundred feet of boulders as the trail approaches the summit. On this warm January day, the temperature almost felt hot as we ascended, reaching into the 60s with almost no breeze.

The final approach to the top hides the big finish. Upon reaching the apex, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Jefferson to the south, suddenly join Mt. Hood and complete the five. It requires a clear day for this magic to happen.

Left to right: St. Helens, Rainier, Adams

We spent some time walking around the flat summit plateau enjoying the five volcanoes and found a spot overlooking the Columbia and Bonneville Dam to eat lunch. To the west, fog still clung to parts of the Willamette Valley around Portland. After a half hour we started the descent down the opposite side of "Heartbreak Ridge." On a bad day, parts of the downward hike are akin to walking on marbles on a pool table. But the conditions were great and we didn't experience much difficulty navigating back to the PCT, and then hiking the final miles back to the car.

It's an overused word, but the overall experience can only be described as epic: January, 60s, no snow and clear conditions. Cascadia for the win!

Click here to check out pictures from the hike.

Dog Mountain - January 17, 2015

Dog Mountain (7 miles, 2800' elevation gain) is the most popular challenging hike in the Columbia Gorge. There are more difficult routes on both sides of the river, and some that draw larger crowds, but arguably none that bring more people to such steep and challenging terrain. And it's easy to see why. During peak wildflower season in the spring, the upper reaches are blanketed in an alpine canola field of yellow balsamroots.

For the solitude alone, January is my favorite time of year to hit the Dog. On a clear day when the trail is caught in the icy maw of winter, there is a beauty that rivals the floral display of spring. Unfortunately we decided to hike in the middle of a deluge.

Our group of six met at the trail east of Stevenson on the Washington side of the river around 9:30 a.m. The first ominous sign was the dearth of cars in the parking lot. On a nice day, finding a spot can be similar to parking at Ikea on a Sunday. We were able to pull up next to the only other three cars in the lot.

The weather remained calm on the early switchbacks as the trail rocketed up from near sea level to 700 feet and the first junction. We rested, adjusted layers, and continued up the "less difficult" of the two routes. By the time we reached the viewpoint with the bench, it was apparent we wouldn't be seeing much for the rest of the day. As the rain ratcheted up its intensity, we followed the trail back into the woods before reaching the next junction. 

The final mile to the top was wet. We emerged again from the forest and slogged in the rain across the treeless upper reaches of the Dog. Wind Mountain was visible at times to the west, and we could see the lower part of the Oregon side of the river to the south, but little else. At the summit, rather than bask in victory, we spent perhaps 180 seconds before rapidly descending in search of a sheltered place to eat. We chose to take the route toward the Augspurger loop, adding length to the hike, but offering a more gradual descent back to the trailhead.

At this point the wind picked up a bit on the exposed western flank of mountain and icy pellets whipped us in the face. And the rain started falling even harder. Once back in the woods, we found a semi-sheltered area to refuel. But we were soon chased away by more rain after a snack and ceremonial toast of Fireball.

It took awhile to dry out and warm up back at the car. The shivering continued even at the Cascade Locks Ale House. I've been on many rainy hikes in the Gorge, but perhaps none as intense as this one. It was still a great day with a fun group, but it was also a memorable one because of the rain.

Click here for photos of the hike.

Hardy Ridge - January 10, 2015

Hardy Ridge is a newer trail located inside Beacon Rock State Park on the Washington side of the Columbia River. The route's 2500 feet of elevation gain are spread out over a 10 mile loop just west of Hamilton Mountain.

We departed Portland on a wet January morning and rendezvoused to carpool at the outlet mall in Troutdale. On the way to the mall, the weather improved along I-84 to provide clear views up the Gorge and of Mt. Hood wearing a lenticular wizard hat. The drive to Cascade Locks and the Bridge of the Gods showcased the Gorge at its seasonal best, with mist-covered rocks and waterfalls galore. After crossing the river, we doubled back past Bonneville Dam to Beacon Rock State Park and the trailhead.

The rain in Portland kept many fair-weather hikers at home for the day as there were few cars in the parking lot. We quickly hit the trail and headed up the mountain on a wide, equestrian-friendly path. The lower portion of the hike was more scenic that usual due to the time of year. In the spring and summer, deciduous trees limit views of the river until the trail reaches a higher elevation. We eventually reached a fork in the trail and took a spur up a path that switch-backed up the west side of a forested ridge.

As we ascended, a cloud bank rolled up the river and over the top of the mountains due west of Hardy. By the time we reached the top of the ridge and emerged from the forest, we were overtaken by clouds and mist. Fortunately the rain remained light. The view alternated by the minute between almost zero visibility and ten miles as a breeze pushed the clouds over the ridge.

We continued upward into a more alpine environment with fewer trees and passed the summit cairn, pausing at a moss-covered patch out of the wind for a few minutes. To the east, Dog Mountain and the radio-capped top of Mt. Defiance were visible. To the west, waterfalls on the Oregon side of the river came in and out of view as the weather continued to change.

The return hike down the ridge and around the continuation of the loop on the east side of Hardy was pleasant and uneventful. The trail descended back into the forest at a moderate grade and looped back to meet up with the original equestrian trail. By mid-afternoon we were back at the car and on our way to Portland in time to catch the Seahawks playoff game.

Overall it was a great day. Hardy Ridge is a worthwhile hike rain or shine, but it's definitely important to bring the right gear for the changing conditions.

Click here to view pics from the hike.

Angel's Rest - January 1, 2015

Pentaquest 2015 (VII) kicked off with a vengeance on New Year's Day in the Columbia River Gorge. While many Portlanders caffeinated and hydrated their NYE hangovers before settling in for a day of college football, we started the day on Angel's Rest for the third year in a row (click here for pics). Angel's Rest has several things going for it: the trailhead is accessible year round, it's close to Portland, and the elevation gain is relatively light (1540') compared to Dog, Table and the other Gorge giants.

The group convened in the trailhead parking lot just off I-84's Bridal Veil exit at 8:30 a.m. On the drive out from Portland, Mt. Hood's silhouette loomed large over the landscape as whitecaps rippled across the Columbia. Conditions were clear in all directions, but the wind was howling. I later learned nearby Crown Point experienced a 75 mph gust at about the same time we were hiking.

Our group started with six as we headed up the trail before meeting another three friends plus a Rhodesian Ridgeback near the summit. At the crossing of Coopey Creek, the surrounding foliage was encrusted in ice as a result of an extended cold stretch in the Gorge. This ice, along with the wind gusts and and fantastic post-sunrise winter light, defined the day. Across the river, sheets of frozen water on the cliffs around Cape Horn glowed as the sun continued to rise.

After an hour we reached the summit. At this point the wind reached an entirely different level of intensity, claiming one of our hat's as a prize. But it was a casualty worth taking for such a view! From the top, the crisp, clear conditions allowed for a haze-free glance of the Portland skyline with OHSU, Wells Fargo and Big Pink all recognizable. To the north, Silver Star and Hamilton looked sharp, and to the northeast, Mt. Adams radiated arctic white. We quickly snapped a few pictures, took a video of the wind blowing us around, and returned to a more sheltered area. 

After a snack and sip of celebratory whiskey, we headed down the mountain to get back in time for football. Overall it was a great day for the nine of us, and an epic way to kick off 2015.

Here are some pics from the hike.

Indian Point - January 18, 2014

There are few bad hikes in the Columbia Gorge. Some hikes on the wrong day aren't perfect tens, such as when you encounter too many people on the trail, scramble through particularly gnarly weather or forget the trail whiskey in the car. But even on these days the hike is usually still a five or a six, especially when you're in good company.

Columbia Gorge with Mt. Adams in the background.

Then there are hikes that are so good that even on a bad day in the pissing January rain they can be nothing less than an eight or a nine. And on days when you catch them under perfect conditions, they break the scale at an eleven. Indian Point is one of these hikes (7.5 miles, 2,700 feet), and on January 18th it was nothing less than spectacular.

The day started in east Portland at the designated rendezvous point. Four of us piled into a single car, headed down I-84 and met a fifth team member at the Herman Creek trailhead just east of Cascade Locks. Although the temperature was in the thirties, conditions were nearly perfect - the morning fog had mostly burned off, giving rise to a bluebird sky. We quickly geared up and headed into the woods, stopping soon to shed a layer.

The early part of the trail system leading to Indian Point involves several forks in the road. Taking the wrong spur will lead to other adventures, but it won't bring you to the legendary promontory. We had to check the Sullivan guidebook more than once to confirm we were on the correct route. Confident in our pathfinding, we continued plodding up the trail at a steady pace. Some of the hikes in the Gorge - such as Dog Mountain - hit you hard and often. Indian Point is more forgiving. The hike contains a healthy 2,700 vertical feet of elevation gain, but it is evenly distributed.

Wind Mountain, Dog Mountain and others in the fog

After a few hours the trail crossed into a winter wonderland with a thin layer of frost and unmelted snow, and we reached a spur that descended a quarter mile down to the point. The words "epic," "amazing," and "bomber" are often overused (especially by me) when describing a kick-ass hike. But Indian Point on this day deserved an encyclopedia's worth of superlatives. As we down-climbed through the trees to the rocky outcropping, the combination of snow and frost on the trees, scattered fog patches across the river and unobstructed view of Mt. Adams brought about a synergy of awesome sauce. We lingered for a few minutes at the base of the point, soaked in the view and scarfed down a snack before retreating to a place more sheltered from the wind.

On this day, none of us decided to climb up Indian Point. Here's a video from 2012 when my friend Nate and I scrambled to the top.

Tip of Mt. Hood and the Herman Creek valley

Back on the main trail, we gained another few hundred feet of elevation before topping out in the woods on the Nick Eaton Ridge and descending down its backside. We found an ideal rest spot with a view of the tip of Mt. Hood and the Herman Creek valley. From there, the trail zig-zagged down the mountain for a few miles, skirting in and out of the woods before linking back up with the trail we started on earlier in the day and returning to the parking lot.

Lessons learned: always choose to go hiking in winter when the conditions are good (as opposed to staying home and watching sports); add Indian Point into the wheelhouse of Gorge hikes (it's as good as the Dog or Hamilton Mountain); and hiking with young kids can be fun (one of our team members rocked the trail at less than two years old - and did awesome).

Cape Horn - January 12, 2014

A day after the strongest storm of the winter (thus far) hit in the Pacific Northwest - and after watching the Seahawks advance to the NFC Championship Game - I joined four others to hike the Cape Horn loop trail in the Columbia Gorge (7 miles, 1,200 feet) instead of doubling down on another afternoon of NFL action. The decision was definitely the right call.

View from the amphitheater.

After breakfast at Gravy in Portland, we crossed into Washington and traveled along Highway 14 through Camas and Washougal to the trailhead in Skamania County. This was my first time visiting Cape Horn, and the first time anyone in the group had hiked the entire loop. Over the past few years, the Cape Horn Conservancy - a volunteer non-profit dedicated to the stewardship of the trail - has performed substantial work on the trail and closely engaged with nearby landowners. We were all impressed by the product of their labors.

Around 10 a.m. we hit the trail clad in Gortex, but soon started shedding layers. A light, steady rain fell for the first few hours of the hike, but gradually transitioned to a gentle mist and then nothing. It was hard to believe that the day before a sensor recorded a gust of 52 mph near the trail.

Although the rain was light, the trail retained a considerable amount of moisture. As we gained elevation, our boots and pants began to attract mud. After a few miles we traversed over the highest elevation of the day and reached a clearing. It was obvious work had recently been performed in the area. As the trail gradually descended, we stopped at what looked like a newly-installed amphitheatre with an epic view of the Columbia and the Gorge. It's a vista worth seeing, even by car without going on the hike.

Set from The Hobbit, along with a waterfall.

The weather continued to clear as the trail dropped, crossed under Highway 14 and reached almost to the edge of the Columbia. In a few spots the trail zig-zagged through rockslide areas that looked like something from the New Zealand set of The Hobbit. Along the river, the trail passed through an area closed from February 1-July 15 to protect falcon habitat. We were fortunate to miss the closure by several weeks.

For the rest of the day, we paralleled the river and traversed below several mightily impressive waterfalls. And then we followed a road that passed by several farms before crossing back under Highway 14 and returning to the parking lot. Once in the car, we headed back to Portland for something fermented and fried at the Hophouse.

Wins of the day: much better weather than expected, great hiking companions, epic amphitheater, Tolkien-esque terrain and waterfalls galore. Lesson learned: don't store gum in the pantry. My wife brought trail mix that had apparently spent too much time next to a Costco-sized back of spearmint gum. Although the chocolate pieces tasted vaguely like a knock-off Andes mint, the cashews and other nuts tasted like they had gone through the wash with a dryer sheet.

Coyote Wall - January 4, 2014

Only four days into 2014, a friend and I completed the second hike of the season. Coyote Wall (8 miles, 1,900 feet) is located five miles east of Hood River on the Washington side of the Columbia. It's one of the best hikes in the Gorge, straddling climate zones as mountain forest transitions to the arid terrain of the Cascadia rain shadow. Normally I would wait for the snow to melt and wildflowers to bloom before attempting Coyote, but this January's dry winter conditions were too good to pass up.

Mt. Hood, Hood River and Mt. Defiance (left to right)
with the Columbia River in the foreground.

We reached the newly renovated parking lot and trailhead facilities at 9:15 a.m. and quickly started the day. The temperature was below freezing, but the conditions were perfect - no snow, but frozen ground with very little mud. The loop started by winding through a forested area along the base of Coyote Wall, going in and out of private property. Although the trail was well-established - and I had used the route several times before - the path we took was no longer the preferred path because of the private land. In the future I'm not sure I would go this way.

With each step, the prominence of Mt. Hood increased off to the southwest as it rose above the surrounding landscape. After several miles of gradual uphill hiking, the trail joined a dirt road. We took a long break at a spot where the road opened up to a view of the Hood River Valley before continuing into the woods. Now at the highest point of the hike, the trail turned back towards the Columbia in a forested area along the top of the wall. After more than a mile, the trees ended and the landscape provided an unobstructed view for the rest of the hike. We could see from Stacker Butte and The Dalles to the east, to Indian Point and the mountains near Cascade Locks to the west. In my opinion it is one of the best spots in the entire Gorge.

Looking east to The Dalles.

During the rest of the descent we stopped several times to soak in the view and take pictures. A few other hikers were out, and over 20 mountain bikers. Many of the hikers/bikers brought unleashed dogs with them, leaving a surprising minefield of trail dookie. More than once we almost stepped in something worse than mud.

Before returning to the parking lot, the trail traveled for a half-mile on a paved road at the base of a steep cliff. The impact marks of several boulders could be seen in the pavement, with other smaller rocks scattered on the trail. I wouldn't want to be there during a wind storm!

By 2:10 p.m. we were back at the car. Overall it was a great hike. Lessons learned: watch where you step when unleashed dogs are around, and let the conditions - not the season - dictate when to go on a hike. Despite being in early January, the trail was in perfect shape. I would also consider the route carefully. Because of the private property issue, I've learned alternative paths have become available as part of a master trail plan for the area.

Angel's Rest - January 1, 2014

The team at the end of the hike

The hiking season is officially underway! We started the year strong by hitting the trail on New Year's Day with a hike up Angel's Rest in the Columbia Gorge (4.8 miles, 1,540 feet). An unprecedented 16 adults and kids (and one dog) took part in the hike. I think eight was the previous record for any Pentaquest activity.

The conditions were perfect for the middle of winter. Portland remained shrouded in stagnant, foggy air as we drove east on I-84. But around Troutdale we emerged from the clouds and caught a glimpse of mighty Wy'east. The sky remained partly cloudy for the rest of the day.

Due to the large size of the group, we took five cars and arrived at the trailhead at different times. By 9:50 a.m. the team was assembled and we began the hike. Everything went according to plan - the kids toughed it out, but eventually had to be carried; the dog remained on his leash; and everyone made it to the top. As the day progressed we encountered an increasing number of people - a lot more than one would expect for January.

Looking west toward Portland and the edge of the stagnant air

Upon reaching the exposed summit area, the wind picked up considerably. The gusts were probably pushing 30-40 miles per hour. Thankfully it wasn't very cold out or the wind chill would have been unbearable. After soaking in the view and seeing Adams, Table and Hamilton to the northeast, we found a sheltered spot back down the trail with a view and enjoyed a snack (and a taste of Jameson).

As we descended, the number of hikers coming up the trail continued to grow. When we reached the end, cars filled the parking lot and lined the sides of the road. It would have been nice to have had more solitude, but it's hard to blame people for taking advantage of the stellar winter hiking conditions.

Overall it was an outstanding day with a great group. No notable lessons were learned or key pieces of gear left at home, but the year is still young.